Day One: Surprises Abound in the Arizona Desert

TEMPE, Arizona - Monday, July 6, 2009 began the first day of an adventure around Arizona. My good friend Laura arrived from Lousiana on Sunday and we ended a long end of driving enjoying some of the delicious Mexican-American food found all over here in Tempe, Arizona. It had been a long day for her, so after a good meal it was time to turn in.

I arrived at her hotel early Monday morning to set forth to Lake Havasu City, our goal was to see the famous London Bridge, which was brought over by Robert McCulloch in the late 1960′s from it’s former home in London, England to the scorching Arizona desert.

The trip started out at about 8:30 AM and it was already over 100 degrees in Tempe. We began traveling west along Interstate 10 toward our first destination: Quartzsite, Arizona.

Quartzsite, Arizona: Town Limits

When driving into Quartzsite from the east, you notice something that is common in parts of Arizona. The Town Limits start near Gold Nugget Road, 6 miles from the nearest signs of the town, making for a ready tax base if Quartzsite were to grow beyond the current town center. However, obscenely exaggerated town limits are not the only interesting thing to see in Quartzsite. In addition to acres upon acres of land for RV’s and camping, there is Paul and his bookstore.

Books, and a little something extra

At first glance, Readers’ Oasis Books along Main Street in Quartzsite looks like just another roadside attraction. The wood-framed building includes additional space added on by trailers parked tail end into the building. One of the first things you may notice is a table out front with free books. The place is inviting, and is a bit of local culture.

That is about the time that you meet Paul, and I mean ALL of Paul.

Now, it is not common in Metropolitain Phoenix to have the owner of the bookstoor approach you wearing nothing more than a strategically placed knitted codpiece held up by a single wire around the waist. However, this is Quartzsite, a desert paradise and home of the interesting.

So, there is Paul who is obviously not shy about his body, which has turned into a sort of brown leather in the hot Arizona sunshine. As shocking as it was to see him walk out to greet us upon our arrival in such a status of unclothedness, any awkwardness should be quickly disavowed. 

Paul’s collection of books is quite interesting. He has stacks and stacks of books traded in by visitors and locals, new books, postcards, and various other gifts. This, of course, includes editions of nudist magazines and books on the nudist lifestyle. However, Paul is a gracious host. Cold sodas for two weary travlers, on the house, as we navigated his stacks and stacks of books and periodicals.

We each found something to take home, and prepared to part ways with a man who is quite a character. Using basic table to determine tax, we paid for our books, and prepared to leave. Not, however, without a lesson in Cacti.

Off-Roading and Vast Nothingness

After saying goodbye to Paul, we set our sights on a landmark listed in my Arizona Atlas, a 47-Armed Saquaro Cactus just outside of Quartzsite.  We set off down Dome Rock Road to find this particular attraction. Sadly though, after thoroghly scanning the countryside, we could not find trace of the famed Cactus. This search included taking my 2006 Mercury Grand Marquis over some rough terrain in search of the beastly cactus.

The Desert Terrain While Searching for the 47-Armed Saguaro Cactus near Quartzsite, AZ.

Not finding the cactus, we set off toward Parker on Arizona 95, over desert grasslands. Again, like Quartzsite, we meet up with an “Parker Town Limits” sign shortly after the highway meets up with Arizona 72, miles from the actual town. In our journey we discovered that towns in Arizona tend to annex far beyond their current extents in hopes of securing potential tax dollars. So, a word of warning to Arizona travlers: just because you’re in the town limits, don’t expect to see a town right away.

We reached Parker and topped off the tank since we were reaching the half-full mark. We arrived to Parker admidst some excing news (exciting for Quartzsite as well). The front page of the local paper said it all: “Walmart Opens July 15th”. This is the big news out of Parker, Arizona.

Lake Havasu and the London Bridge 

The Union Jack, at London Bridge, Lake Havasu City, Arizona

We finally made it, after several hours of driving in temperatures ranging from 103 to 114, to Lake Havasu City and the famous London Bridge. The scorching heat of the July sun made any long periods of outdoor activity down right unbearable. We quickly took our shots of the famous bridge, and then headed inside the Barley Brothers Resturant at the Island Mall & Brewery for lunch. After our experience, I can say that the service at the resturant there was marginal at best.

Lamp Post on the London Bridge

London Bridge

London Bridge

The View North from London Bridge.

Lamps Midspan

Lamps Mid-Span

The View North from London Bridge.

After lunch we decided it was far too hot to do much else and instead headed north, to Kingman. A brief stop along Andy Devine Blvd, we headed toward Phoenix down US 93 and the Joshua Tree Parkway.

Joshua Tree Parkway

The day was definately beginning to get long, as drivers-butt began to set in. We made our way somewhat hastefully down US 93 toward Wickenburg, only stopping a few times. We did make the loop around the Burro Creek Bridge Campground. A warning to drivers heading down to see the bridge from the old highway, it is steep on the way down but fairly well maintained. That is until you cross the old Burro Creek Bridge. The remaining road is cracked and potholed and, much to the dismay of my passenger, completely passable. However, I would recommend that unseasoned drivers avoid this stretch and simply turn around at the campground. 

The day was increadibly long, and the sweltering summer temperatures almost unbearable at times. Walking on the surface of the sun, or as it seemed, in the barren desert wastelands had it’s finer moments. Forever will I remember getting to walk along the London Bridge, but more importanly I will always remember (and will return to visit) Paul, the naked bookseller in Quartzsite, Arizona. If you’re heading out that way, pay Paul a visit and buy a book.

Today’s events were just a shining example of why we must not hesitate to get to know someone while on the road. At first glance, Paul is a strange naked old man. However, after talking to him for a while you get to realize he’s just a good man, with a love for books, and the desire to be free. It is characters like Paul that make road trips more memorable, and it is characters like Paul that remind me I need to step out of my comfort zone while on the road.

Tomorrow, we tour Metropolitain Phoenix and quest for… yarn.